The MGB boot floor can suffer from rust both on the inside due to water
ingress and on the outside where it is exposed to the elements. Water and
dampness can cause havoc if it penetrate between the fuel tank and boot floor.
Often the best remedy is to replace the floor as a whole.
The first step is to raise the rear of the car to a convenient working
height. As always the car should be properly secured when working underneath.
The process involves welding and it is a wise precaution to have a suitable fire
appliance on hand.
Remove the fuel filler inlet and fuel tank, which is mounted directly beneath
the boot floor. Ensure that the short length of wiring harness to the sender
unit is placed out of harms way. This would be a good time to replace the tank
because if the boot floor has rusted then the top of the tank will almost
certainly have suffered from the bug. Store the fuel tank well away from the
work area. The fuel line from tank to pump should also be removed and replace if
necessary. Part of the wiring harness inside the boot that supplies the lights
is vulnerable and should also be moved to a safe place. The rear section of the
exhaust pipe is suspended from a bracket mounted on the underside of the boot
floor and so should be removed. At this point it is also prudent to remove the
rear bumper to facilitate access. Finally, the batteries and fuel pump are
mounted close to the work area and should be removed to prevent any risk of
damage or fire.
The next step is to remove the old boot floor. Before you do this you should
examine the new floor to get an idea of its extent and how much old metal should
be removed. The new panel should have a rear exhaust-mounting bracket attached
to the underside and a spare wheel fixing mounting on the top. This panel is
readily available from good specialist suppliers. Using an angle grinder cut out
the old panel making cuts approximately 50mm inside the rim of the floor where
it has been spot-welded into place. Once the bulk of the panel has been removed
drill out the old spot welds and remove the remnants of old metal. An angle
grinder or nibbler would be most suitable for cutting to avoid any distortion of
the remaining metal and a 6 or 8mm spot weld drill bit should be used for
drilling out the spot welds. Be especially careful when drilling out the spot
welds along the rear valance since this is an exterior panel. Following this,
dress the flange around the boot area with a hammer and dolly ready for welding
in the new panel.
Click the picture for a larger view
As always, great care must be taken to obtain a good fit for the new panel.
Pattern panels never quite fit first time and some cutting and shaping will be
necessary. Offer up the new boot floor into place and make minor adjustments
until you are satisfied with the fit. The floor will need to be taken in and out
several times before this happens and so blind fasteners spaced around the rim
will make the fitting and removal less frustrating. Once a satisfactory fit has
been obtained, remove the panel and punch holes around the flange at 15mm
intervals ready for plug welding. Refit the panel and plug-weld it into place.
The exhaust mounting bracket underneath the floor will also need to be welded to
the rear valance. When this is complete dress the welds as necessary with an
angle grinder ready for repainting.
Underneath the floor all seams should be sealed with seam sealer before
painting and undersealing as desired. During welding the outside finish of the
rear panel may be damaged by heat and some repainting will be required in this
area. Finally, to complete the job, refit the ancillaries previously removed and
road-test the car.