MGB models built before November 1967, when the Mark II was
introduced, have a Positive earth electrical system. There are a number of
advantages to be gained by converting these cars to the later Negative earth
system. The early cars were fitted with a dynamo, which was barely adequate for
the job. The alternator has a higher output and is therefore better able to cope
with demand and also keeps the batteries in better condition. This is especially
significant where a car covers low annual mileage. In addition it can often be
difficult to buy accessories such as radio/cassettes and CD players for Positive
earth cars. This conversion should be well within the capabilities of the owner
who carries out his own servicing and maintenance.
It is possible to convert an MGB to Negative earth using the
original Positive earth wiring loom. Before undertaking a conversion the wiring
loom must be in good condition and free from any cracked insulation or badly
made repairs. If in doubt the entire loom should be replaced. In any case, a
car, which is thirty, plus years old will most probably need to be rewired as a
matter of course. There are three items that should be replaced and these are:
the fuel pump
the tachometer
and the dynamo
The coil can be retained along with the voltage regulator
although both will need modification, which will be explained later. The
tachometer should be replaced by a negative earth example from a 1967 - 72 car
and the dynamo should be exchanged for an alternator. If you choose to re-new
the coil then a Negative earth type should be purchased. It may also be useful
to replace the main battery lead from battery to solenoid, especially if it is
old and the insulation is worn or has hardened. The Positive terminal on the
battery is larger that the Negative terminal. During the conversion the
batteries will be reversed and the Negative terminal will be in the Positive
terminal position and vice versa.
The work involved in the conversion is as follows:
First remove the battery terminals to isolate the power source. Turn both
batteries through 180 degrees so that the Positive terminal for the right
battery is in the rear right corner and the Negative terminal for the left
battery is in the rear right corner. The battery interconnecting lead should
also be reversed to enable the terminals to fit. The earth strap on the left
battery should be replaced by a lead with a smaller Negative earth
connector. Do not connect the Positive terminal to the right battery at this
stage.
Replace the fuel pump with a Negative earth example. This is a simple
exchange except that the Negative earth pump has a breather pipe that
terminates inside the boot. This should be fitted to allow the pump to
breathe during operation. It is also a good opportunity to ensure that the
fuel line is in good condition. If replacement is necessary the alternative
copper system is advisable. The fuel line should be checked during annual
MOTs and corrosion or damage could result in failure.
Remove the tachometer and insert the Negative earth replacement using
existing connections. The replacement should be from a 1967 to 1972 car
which using a wire loop similar to the earlier car. The wiring connections
into the loom are the same as for the '67 - '72 car. If in doubt refer to
the appropriate wiring diagram in the workshop manual.
Click the picture for a larger view Replace the dynamo with an alternator. Exchange alternators are widely
available but specialists are often reluctant to exchange a dynamo for an
alternator. It is possible to pick up a second-hand unit from a breaker or
an auto-jumble and if in good condition it can be used but if not, it should
be exchanged. The alternator pulley and fan are not normally exchanged and
should be retained and fitted to the new unit. The Lucas 16ACR variant is
the most suitable; the 16AC alternator is best avoided because it requires a
separate voltage regulator and the wiring for this is not included in the
Positive Earth wiring loom. If a higher output alternator is used heavier
wiring from alternator to solenoid is advisable to cope with the higher
current. Fitting the alternator requires a modified rear mounting which is
available from specialists. However, I found that the bracket supplied to
me, when fitted, did not allow the alternator to align properly.
Consequently I made a bracket that allowed proper alignment using the new
one as a pattern. Proper Alignment is vital to allow the fan belt to run
smoothly and to avoid undue wear on the fan belt and alternator bearings.
Click the picture for a larger view When
fitting the alternator you may find that the adjustment on the bracket is
insufficient to take up the slack in the MGB fan drive belt.
In this case you have two alternatives. You can get a shorter drive belt, a belt
for a 1986 > Ford Granada 2.0L should fit or alternatively make a longer
bracket. The bracket on the right in the picture was made from a piece of 30mm x
4mm bar. It is 135mm long with a 50mm slot for adjustment. The MGB fan drive belt will now fit which saves sourcing
problems in the future when a new belt is required during servicing. The original
MGB bracket
is shown on the left of the picture.
Click the picture for a larger view
The
voltage regulator can be retained as a junction box in its original
position on the right side of the engine bay. However, it must be modified
to allow it to be used as a junction box. The only modification required is
to solder a bridging wire from the 'D' terminal to the 'B' terminal on the
back of the box as shown in the photograph. Whilst viewing the back of the
voltage regulator you will note that the 'B' terminal is a double outlet.
The copper terminals are exposed on the back of the box and soldering should
be straightforward. Ensure that new wire is well insulated and protected to
prevent the possibility of a short-circuit on the back-plate. The voltage
regulator can then be re-fitted.
Once this work has been completed the re-wiring can begin.
Connect wiring to the fuel pump in the normal way ensuring a good earth. If
the original Positive earth coil is retained the two low tension wires should
be reversed as follows;
Connect the white wire from the SW terminal to CB terminal.
Connect the white/black wire from the CB terminal to the SW terminal.
If a new negative earth coil has been fitted then the
following connections should be made;
The white wire from the ignition switch should be connected to the (+)
terminal on the coil.
The white/black wire from the distributor should be connected to the (-)
terminal on the coil.
The coil will have to be re-located on the right hand inner panel in the
same position as on later models.
Connect the wiring to the alternator with the heavy-duty
brown/yellow wire to either of the large spade connectors and the brown/green
wire to the small spade connector. If the dynamo connectors are not suitable
for the alternator or are in poor condition then they should be replaced. A
suitable alternator plug kit is available from specialists.
Click the picture for a larger view
Next the voltage regulator should be wired as follows;
a) The brown/yellow wire from the alternator should be connected to the 'D'
terminal.
b) The brown heavy-duty wire from the solenoid should be re-connected to one
of the 'B' terminals.
c) The double brown wire, which goes to the ignition switch and fuse box,
should be connected to the second 'B' terminal.
d) The brown/green wire from the alternator and the brown/yellow wire to the
ignition light do not get re-connected to the voltage regulator. Instead,
replace the terminals with bullet connectors and connect them together using
a snap connector.
e) The earth wire from the voltage regulator should not be re-connected to
terminal 'E' on the box but attached to a convenient earth point instead.
This will ensure that the voltage regulator bracket is not earthed.
f) Carefully re-connect the Positive terminal to the right battery and test
the circuits.
It is worth fixing a 'Negative Earth' warning decal onto the bonnet
locking platform as a reminder. These are available from specialists.
Finally, road-test the car to check that the ignition warning light goes
out when the engine is running above tick-over and that all is in order.
The conversion works well with the minimum of modification
and can relatively easily be brought back to original specification.